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A Day of Departures at European Menswear Labels

Berluti and Brioni will part ways with their respective creative directors, while Stefano Pilati is said to be exiting the Ermenegildo Zegna Group.
From left: Stefano Pilati, Brendan Mullane, Alessandro Sartori | Source: Courtesy
By
  • Kate Abnett

LONDON, United Kingdom — In a day of departures at luxury menswear labels, Italian fashion house Brioni announced this afternoon that it has decided by mutual agreement not to renew its working collaboration with creative director Brendan Mullane.

“Brendan’s passion, vision and charisma always emerged through his work and we are very grateful for his dedicated commitment to the company,” said Brioni chief executive officer Gianluca Flore. According to a statement, the Kering-owned company will announce a new creative director “in due time.” Its Spring/Summer 2017 collection will be developed by the internal design team. Mullane’s next move has not been revealed.

Meanwhile, Paris-based menswear label Berluti confirmed that designer Alessandro Sartori will exit the company. Sartori, who has spent five years at the LVMH-owned house, is reportedly departing for a new opportunity, which has yet to be announced. His Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, shown last month during Paris's men's fashion week, was his last for the label. Berluti operates around 46 boutiques and 20 wholesale accounts worldwide.

Finally, completing the trio of major changes at European menswear brands, Stefano Pilati is said to be exiting the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. Reached by BoF, Mr Pilati, who joined the Trivero, Italy-based company in 2013, declined to comment.

Update: In response to a request for comment from BoF, a representative from Zegna said it is the company's policy not to comment on rumours regarding individuals working at or with Zegna.

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