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Comings and Goings at Paris Fashion Week

Key departures at Alexander McQueen, Chloé and more may kick off another round of designer musical chairs. That, plus, what else to watch for in the coming week.
Sarah Burton.
Sarah Burton's final show for Alexander McQueen will take place at Paris Fashion Week. (Getty Images)
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Runway farewells are usually less exciting than runway debuts: a first show is often a key opportunity for a new designer to articulate a new vision for a brand. This season, between Gucci and Tom Ford, Milan had the biggest debuts, but the Paris schedule features some key farewells.

Sarah Burton is set to show her last show for Alexander McQueen after over two decades at the brand, first as founder Lee McQueen’s right hand and then as creative director following his death in 2010. Burton herself has plenty of fans. Over the years, she has delivered some exquisite collections (and McQueen was not long ago parent company Kering’s fastest-growing brand). Her last show is sure to be emotional.

Longtime Miuccia Prada deputy Fabio Zambernardi’s last Prada show this week in Milan (Zambernardi has been at Mrs Prada’s side since the 1990s) received a standing ovation. Zambernardi is leaving the company on an unambiguously high note; sales at Prada are booming. But his final outing for Prada Group will come in Paris at Prada sister label Miu Miu, where revenue spiked 50 percent in the first half of the year.

Paris will also bring Gabriela Hearst’s last show for Chloé after just three years at the brand. Hearst’s tenure had some hits (see: the label’s Nama sneaker) but the her sustainability-infused vision ultimately wasn’t enough to excite shoppers.

Elsewhere on the schedule, Daniel Roseberry’s second ready-to-wear show for Schiaparelli will continue the brand’s push to translate its couture buzz into sales. Harris Reed has something to prove after a shaky first outing at Nina Ricci. Nicolas Di Felice continues his mission to reimagine space-age Courrèges for modern consumers. Mugler and Margiela are back. And if Demna is done laying low at Balenciaga and puts on one of the spectacles that used to generate huge buzz for the brand, that’s likely to be a key moment of the week.

But the biggest story out of Paris may not come from the runway itself but what comes after the editors and celebrities head home. Following a set of prominent farewells, plus the fact that ex-Gucci designer Alessandro Michele has yet to announce a new role, speculation is mounting that a new round of designer musical chairs could be imminent. Expect a new set of debuts (and farewells) in February.

What Else to Watch for This Week

Sunday

Milan Fashion Week: Giorgio Armani

Monday

Paris Fashion Week: Vaquera

Tuesday

Paris Fashion Week: Peter Do, Christian Dior, Saint Laurent

Victoria’s Secret’s fashion show streams on Amazon

Wednesday

Paris Fashion Week: Courrèges, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Undercover, Cecilie Bahnsen, Acne Studios, Balmain, Marni

H&M reports quarterly results

Thursday

Paris Fashion Week: Lanvin (Future guest capsule), Chloé, Givenchy, Rick Owens, Schiaparelli, Isabel Marant

Nike and Aritzia report quarterly results

Friday

Paris Fashion Week: Loewe, Issey Miyake, Giambattista Valli, Nina Ricci, Victoria Beckham, Yohji Yamamoto, Coperni

Sephoria, the beauty retailer’s two-day experiential retail extravaganza in New York, returns in person for the first time since the pandemic

Saturday

PFW: Junya Watanabe, Carven (Louise Trotter’s debut), Vivenne Westwood, Hermès, Elie Saab, Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester (Stefano Gallici’s debut)

The Week Ahead wants to hear from you! Send tips, suggestions, complaints and compliments to brian.baskin@businessoffashion.com.

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