‘I can’t complain about the business,’ said the designer as he turned a rundown 18th-century mansion in Paris into a Wunderkammer for his latest collection and the launch of his new fragrance and beauty offering.

We expect extraordinary craft from Valentino, Schiaparelli and Sacai. The real challenge is making an emotional connection.

How does fashion fit into a world turned upside down? Shows by Rick Owens, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and Gabriela Hearst at Chloé offered intensely personal answers.

Dior and Saint Laurent showcase the challenges that lie ahead for the keepers of Virgil Abloh’s legacy.