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Helmut Lang Taps Peter Do as Creative Director

Do will unveil his first collection for the Fast Retailing-owned label in September. He will remain at the helm of his namesake label.
Peter Do's Autumn/Winter 2022 show.
Peter Do's Autumn/Winter 2022 show. (Peter Do)

Helmut Lang has appointed Peter Do as its creative director, the brand announced Wednesday.

The New York-based designer will oversee Helmut Lang’s men’s and women’s offerings, effective May 15. His debut collection, spring 2024, will be presented during New York Fashion Week later this year.

Since launching his namesake label in 2018, Do quickly emerged as a rising star in the industry, becoming known for his sharp tailoring and modern take on workwear. As a student at F.I.T., his 2014 graduation collection won the LVMH Graduate Prize. Soon after, he was hired by Celine, under Phoebe Philo.

In his new role, Do will lend his credibility as a darling in the industry to the ailing Helmut Lang brand, which has seen a revolving door of designers since its namesake founder left the label in 2005. In 2018, the brand restructured its business, effectively cutting sales in North America by half in what sources told BoF was a bid to become profitable again.

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Do will report to Helmut Lang’s chief executive Dinesh Tandon. He will remain in New York and also continue his role at the helm of his own label.

“[Do’s] clear and innovative approach to design very much aligns with the brand’s ethos and heritage,” Tandon said in a statement. “His experience with luxury fashion houses and his acclaimed eponymous label make him a natural choice for this role.”

Helmut Lang was purchased by Uniqlo owner Fast Retailing in 2009, as part of the Japanese retailer’s acquisition of Theory. Prior to launching his own brand, Do designed for Derek Lam.

“Last year, when I was thinking about the next move in my career, one thing remained consistent even when everything else felt uncertain. I needed to continue doing my part in helping the city I love most regain its stature as the center of gravity for everyone who cares about radical thinking in fashion,” Do said in a statement posted on Instagram. “No one embodied this spirit more definitively than Helmut Lang.”

Editor’s Note: This article was updated on 11 May 2023. A previous version of the article misstated that Peter Do won the LVMH Prize in 2014. This is incorrect. Do won the LVMH Graduate Prize.

Learn more:

Peter Do’s Modern Female Sensibility

BoF shines a spotlight on the Phoebe Philo protégé whose womenswear line won over top stockists with its modern staples and youthful tailoring.

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