Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

The Debrief | Gucci’s New Configuration

In an effort to reignite consumer fire, the Italian megabrand has done some restructuring. Bernstein luxury analyst Luca Solca breaks down what it all means.
The Debrief | Gucci's new configuration
The author has shared a Podcast.You will need to accept and consent to the use of cookies and similar technologies by our third-party partners (including: YouTube, Instagram or Twitter), in order to view embedded content in this article and others you may visit in future.

Follow The Debrief wherever you listen to podcasts.


In the late 2010s, Gucci pulled off a successful turnaround by aligning creative director Alessandro Michele’s unique, baroque aesthetic and Jacopo Venturini’s expert merchandising under the leadership of chief executive Marco Bizzarri, according to Luca Solca, Bernstein luxury analyst and BoF contributor. They injected the brand’s heritage and tradition with streetwear codes and coolness — bringing more casual products like sneakers into the luxury fold, and sparking the era of “new luxury,” said Solca.

Lately, the brand has started to see momentum slow, falling behind rivals on organic growth. In search of a boost, Gucci has reorganised, introducing two newly created roles to support creative director Alessandro Michele.

“The onus is on Gucci to continue to drive newness so that consumers can turn their heads and say, ‘Wow, this is something I don’t have. I want to buy it,’” said Solca.

Key Insights:

  • One of creative director Alessandro Michele’s longtime deputies will develop the brand’s commercial collections in the newly created role of design studio director. Maria Cristina Lomanto will oversee merchandising and brand elevation as executive vice president, brand general manager.
  • The shifts are a signal of Gucci’s intent to appeal to more consumers, while searching for a creative spark. Its biggest challenge right now, according to Solca, is for Gucci to “drive newness” to spur consumer demand.
  • Gucci is also trying to move even further up-market, a huge challenge because it requires momentum and scale. But, Gucci is relatively well-positioned to do the significant amount of marketing and investment required to elevate a brand, given the now over €10 billion in annual sales it generates.
  • Michele has been creative director of Gucci for seven years; a long tenure by today’s standards. Relying more on a wider team could help mitigate the risks associated with an eventual creative transition for Gucci as it targets annual sales of €15 billion.

Additional Resources:

  • Will Gucci’s New Creative Configuration Work? The Italian megabrand has partitioned its creative department and recruited Maria Cristina Lomanto to oversee merchandising. Is it enough to reignite consumer interest? Luca Solca does the analysis.
  • How Big Can Luxury Brands Get? Kering aims to grow Gucci to €15 billion in annual sales, far beyond what conventional wisdom once deemed possible.
In This Article

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Luxury
How rapid change is reshaping the tradition-soaked luxury sector in Europe and beyond.

The Existential Threat to Independent Brands

This week, The Vampire’s Wife announced its closure and Dion Lee called in administrators, only days after Mara Hoffman said it was shutting down and Roksanda narrowly escaped administration. Many more may follow.

How Chopard Seizes the Red Carpet Spotlight in Cannes

The Swiss brand out-sparkles rivals with a strategy aimed at driving sales as well as image. This year the company dressed Greta Gerwig, Demi Moore and Bella Hadid as well as hosting clients to view (and purchase) its high jewellery range.

view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.