The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Look no further than Antonio Marras for bizarre yet touching narratives. He is a master of the crazy conjunction and seems to have no shortage of ideas. This season he imagined the impossible dialogue between a botanist and a dancer: liberated gestures on one side and meticulous application on the other.
How did it all translate into clothes? Well, the real impact was on the amusing choreography of the show, which consisted in a cast of models, real men and women of all ages and actors/dancers that sometimes, all of a sudden, performed expressive moves on the catwalk. Sounds tricky, but it worked. As for the collection, there were leaf motifs swarming all around, together with the applique and patchwork Marras manages so well. The silhouette, another Marras classic, was slightly 1940s. As it has happened over the past few seasons, it was all very controlled, if still exuberant, and not an ounce costumey or folk. Antonio Marras has clearly found his balance, and it shows.
Even workwear can be couture-ified in the hands of Marc Jacobs, whose off-calendar shows remain primetime draws for the New York fashion industry.
Casey Cadwallader and Pieter Mulier prove that iconic design signatures can be rewritten for a new age.
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino and Kim Jones at Fendi have very different visions for Rome’s most famous fashion houses
Couture week delivered a dizzying mix of the surreal and clothes actually meant to be worn by clients, writes Angelo Flaccavento.