default-output-block.skip-main
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

A Drop of Poison at Olivier Theyskens

Like most of the Belgian designers, Theyskens’ clothes are either something you love — or you don’t. Nothing will change that.
Olivier Theyskens Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: Indigital
By
  • Tim Blanks
BoF PROFESSIONAL

PARIS, France — He is loved. The crowd clapped long and hard for Olivier Theyskens at the end of his show. But it's like any cult performer who inspires unquestioning ardour. Could be Dead Can Dance. Could be Cocteau Twins. And I choose those bands because they fit into the romantic/gothic zone in which Theyskens has floated for twenty years. Twenty? His preternatural youthful looks would deny such a number. But the clothes he showed wouldn't.

The recent Theyskens retrospective at Antwerp's ModeMuseum was titled She Walks in Beauty. She couldn't walk in anything approaching that in his latest show. Theyskens's models lumbered atop Frankenstein platforms, in a curiously self-defeating gesture. The clothes were the languid, sinuous, arcane stuff he's known for — black, black, more black — but he allowed himself some more overt slink: a bias-cut sheath of absinthe velvet, for example, the drop of poison in his insistence of newness.

But is newness something that Olivier Theyskens is even interested in projecting? Like most of the Belgian designers, his clothes are either something you love — or you don’t. Nothing will change that.

© 2021 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The BoF Sustainability Masterclass Series
© 2022 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions and Privacy policy.
The BoF Sustainability Masterclass Series