MILAN, Italy — So far, probably because of a wrong choice when it comes to the show's stylist, Ermanno Scervino has been stuck in the staid and dusty ladylike corner, all bon ton, bon chic and infinite bore. This show finally marked a well-deserved departure. The classicism of the lines and couture-worthy level of craftsmanship are still there, of course.

Ditto for the house's pillars: statement coats, decisive parkas, romantic dresses, womanly tailoring. But the image is fresh, svelte and ultimately captivating. It felt like healthy doses of spontaneity sent the lady's wardrobe upside down. The juxtaposition of masculine and feminine was the right choice: the sculpted pantsuits looked tempting, the coats, albeit slightly Gucci-fied, had charm and the dresses were exquisite. Well done.