NEW YORK, United States — Chris Gelinas is an earnest romantic, nostalgic for another era when designers had the breathing room to slowly develop a point of view. Who knows if that ever really existed. But seven seasons in, Gelinas is finally finding his footing with a collection that contained the components of a brand in the making, including rose-gold metal accents, placket details and sleeves sliced into ribbons.

But distinctive visual cues don't necessarily generate desire, and there were times when his ideas still felt a little naive. Gelinas excels when he incorporates an element of athleticism into his work. An "evening" anorak in the palest blush organza, and kick-flare trousers rendered in super-stretchy, crinkled cotton were both dynamic.