MILAN, Italy — The collection De Vincenzo showed on Friday was an insouciant ode to the man-made: elongated silhouettes — built with plush furs, smock separates and pleated velvet trousers and skirts — were lit up by cartoonish intarsia and oversized leopard spots. There was an elegant sense of playfulness to the looks, like De Vincenzo took joy in piling things up. But if you break it all down, its wonderfully quirky elements could be interpreted in many ways. His love for fabric and knack for not over-designing is something De Vincenzo shares with the Italian masters of previous generations, making him one of the driving forces of the country's new wave.