PARIS, France — After his show, Anthony Vaccerello ticked off the things he'd never done before: embroidery, flat shoes, jeans — generally, a more urban attitude. He claimed he was enjoying himself more. And he should. Vaccarello can afford to feel good. His job at Versus is working well for him. Here, the Versace influence tipped over into print, the white cotton shirts with a blue tattoo motif, like a stylist had sat up all night with a ballpoint pen.

For the rest, the designer refined his steamy signature. Mini-wrapskirts snapped shut. Some had pleated kilt detailing. Silk scarf tops knotted sensuously around the body.  A sheer shift was studded with tubular metal beading. The sexual undertow of Vaccarello’s clothes was as inescapable as the supersized nipple ring that clasped Katlin Aas’s black leather two-piece together.

The wonder is that it all comes from such a slight, unassuming man. Or maybe not: the stillest waters run the deepest.