MILAN, Italy — Antonio Marras took over the construction site at the Teatro Lirico, which is currently under renovation, for his show this morning. It made for a charming set, with red velvet curtains clashing with metal scaffolding. But The show went on and on, featuring way too many outfits loosely based on the same idea. This is exactly the problem with Marras: apart from the fabulously narrative set up, you always know what to expect, which is to say: lots of handwork and reworking of vintage garments, bizarre lunatic ladylike stuff assembled in charming but lunatic ways, a playful take on decoration, poetic menswear.

That's certainly what we saw today. This time around, the colors were particularly bright and jolly, which made for a welcome surprise. But everything else was a bit too familiar. It honestly looked like the show tricks were a cover up for a lack of fresh ideas. Marras is a volcanic creative and a resourceful inventor. It is probably time for him to step out of his comfort zone and test new grounds. He really needs to evolve his woman: a little less costume-y, a little less grandma, a tad more contemporary.