PARIS, France — There was a palpable melancholy to the Maison Margiela show, and not just because of the bluesy soundtrack and the enchanting location — full of marble busts. The undone quality which permeated everything looked like a reflection on time: its passing, and the effect that has on objects and lives. Hence, outfits looked like they were half finished, or peeling off; snap buttons in place of stitches allowed for shirts to be completely taken apart.

It made for a remarkable outing which also highlighted Margiela's double faced identity at the moment. In fact, while John Galliano has set a wholly new and entirely personal template in the womenswear, the menswear keeps a stronger bond with Martin, the originator. At this point, this must be an intentional business plan, and somehow it is so contradictory it is fascinating, or just puzzling.