MILAN, Italy — Massimo Giorgetti took over the gymnasium of a secondary school for today's MSGM show. The set up included stacks of volleyballs and two score walls. Surprise surprise, the collection was about a match between Milan and Rimini, Giorgetti's hometown, known for its burgeoning nightlife and hordes of tourists.

As for the volleyball element, it came in the form of prints culled from 1980s Japanese anime Mila and Shiro, which revolved around football players. Other prints were tourist-themed and came from the archives of photographer Roger Minick. With its vitamin colours, upbeat branding and general sense of joy, energy and optimism, this was a trademark MSGM collection with a resolutely pop spin.

Also trademark in the case of MSGM was the set of references to what strongly directional brands are doing. Balenciaga, in particular, is hugely loved in Milan this season, and Giorgetti obliged. Best in show and non-referential were the printed shirts and matching shorts in the finale. In order to progress, Giorgetti needs to shake things up.