MILAN, Italy — Ferragamo has a new womenswear design director, but the house did not reveal his name until today: Fulvio Rigoni, previously the right-hand man to Raf Simons at Dior. Unsurprisingly, there were persistent Simons-esque whiffs to both the action and the clothes: the glaringly white gallery space, the cold demeanour of the models, the precision of the cuts and the modernism of the whole effect.

This was an interesting outing for the house of Ferragamo: light, young and focused, if still not completely original. Also interesting was the morphing of Ferragamo's iconic rainbow wedge into a sneaker-sock. The mix of romanticism and dynamism felt at times a little cold, but certainly promising.