The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Bohemia is rising on the fashion agenda — again. Don't be fooled though, this time around it is not about marabou feathers, devoré velvets and a glamourised take on slouchy laziness and stylish laissez-faire. At least, not in New York, where a hint of American pragmatism always comes to the fore.
Bohemia, here, is simply a state of mind — call it nonchalance — and, as such, it can either be conveyed via crisply ironed robes de chambre or a slinky sequinned miniskirt. Both of which surfaced in the Thakoon show.
In the show notes, the designer clearly addressed new Bohemian feelings, mentioning texture, textile and a dynamic mash-up of different elements. And a mash-up it was: opening with pale blue tie-dye sportswear, moving to mannish loungewear and closing with glistening sequins and a bunch of body-conscious styles.
The collection came across as a collage of slightly incongruous references, held together with a firm hand — yet palpably lacking in coherence. Maybe, it was just about conveying an eclectic feel: the kind you indulge in when vacationing on a breezy island. In this sense, the leaps between the disco-infected looks and the pragmatism of the tailored shorts and jean jackets made perfect sense. Otherwise, the offset of peaceful pastels and graphic prints did not.
Overall, the collection marked a departure for Thakoon. There are rumours of a major impending investment — seemingly confirmed by the presence of Silas Chou and his daughter Vivian in the front row — which is expected to result in a significant repositioning of the brand. With its uncontrived, young spirit, this latest effort looked like an assured step in this direction.
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino and Kim Jones at Fendi have very different visions for Rome’s most famous fashion houses
Couture week delivered a dizzying mix of the surreal and clothes actually meant to be worn by clients, writes Angelo Flaccavento.
After years on the fringes of the industry, the Hong Kong-born designer opens up about his first-ever show, set to close Paris couture week on Thursday: ‘Fear is the inspiration.’
Haider Ackermann’s guest designership for Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture line finally brings the dramatic creative uplift this season has been missing.