NEW YORK, United States — Bohemia is rising on the fashion agenda — again. Don't be fooled though, this time around it is not about marabou feathers, devoré velvets and a glamourised take on slouchy laziness and stylish laissez-faire. At least, not in New York, where a hint of American pragmatism always comes to the fore.

Bohemia, here, is simply a state of mind — call it nonchalance — and, as such, it can either be conveyed via crisply ironed robes de chambre or a slinky sequinned miniskirt. Both of which surfaced in the Thakoon show.

In the show notes, the designer clearly addressed new Bohemian feelings, mentioning texture, textile and a dynamic mash-up of different elements. And a mash-up it was: opening with pale blue tie-dye sportswear, moving to mannish loungewear and closing with glistening sequins and a bunch of body-conscious styles.

The collection came across as a collage of slightly incongruous references, held together with a firm hand — yet palpably lacking in coherence. Maybe, it was just about conveying an eclectic feel: the kind you indulge in when vacationing on a breezy island. In this sense, the leaps between the disco-infected looks and the pragmatism of the tailored shorts and jean jackets made perfect sense. Otherwise, the offset of peaceful pastels and graphic prints did not.

Overall, the collection marked a departure for Thakoon. There are rumours of a major impending investment — seemingly confirmed by the presence of Silas Chou and his daughter Vivian in the front row — which is expected to result in a significant repositioning of the brand. With its uncontrived, young spirit, this latest effort looked like an assured step in this direction.