The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — The idea of a 'digital fashion show' is nothing new, but as Kym Ellery explained at her static presentation-cum-cocktail in her showroom's gilded Paris HQ, it is a democratiser. "No front row, no editors hierarchy — we released the film online at the same time as the event," said Ellery, who's boyfriend Max Sokolinski jammed in an adjoining room.
The Australian designer has carved a global retail business out of her balloon-sleeve tops and giant flares, her clientele catching onto the mix of high-shine and homier fabrics that she herself wears. It's fare for a sophisticated good-time girl, and this season Ellery thought of hers as a flapper retro-futurist — think 1920s via 1960s — a sort of historical musing on what we should (maybe) be wearing today. It's a complex conceit, but when you saw the scooped necklines or ultra-point collars, monastic Star Trek tailoring, you got the gist.
There were no major tweaks to Ellery’s look nor feel here today — an egg yolk yellow popped against neutrals and monochromes, sporty ripstop nylon scrunched next to spongy wool — but the details were worth a closer look. One print swam with Venusian mermaids, and a delicate golden jewellery line clasped cowrie shells to wrist and ear. Those craftier touches held promise, softening this statement brand’s street-style appeal.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.