PARIS, France — "100% Ungaro" declared the press notes for today's Emanuel Ungaro show. "Pure DNA" was another punchline. Creative director Fausto Puglisi was referring to the 1980s heyday of the maison: a gloriously baroque time of mega-shoulders, miniskirts, super-ruffles and a gazillion polka dots and flowers. Think Joan Collins as Alexis in Dynasty or Princess Stephanie of Monaco in her popstar phase.

That's exactly what the collection delivered: an avalanche of frills and flaps running along short dresses, little blousons and blouses. It felt a bit referential. What it really lacked however was sensuality, an Ungaro code, but that's probably not Puglisi's fault. Today's emotionless models are very different from the women Monsieur Ungaro used to court.