The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — One thing must be said about Giorgio Armani: at 83 years old and still at the helm of everything, he has not given up observing and reacting to the world around him. The results vary but one has to appreciate the effort. Glitter, metallic cowboy boots and miniskirts were quite a sight on the Emporio Armani catwalk this morning, however. Is Armani, the king of understatement, embracing brash excess? It would seem so.
"People today mix everything, regardless of the moment and the occasion: I wanted to bring a touch of the night into daywear," said Armani backstage. Translated in fashion terms, it meant a lot of sparkle, literally everywhere. Even Armani's trademark mannish tailoring got a glitzy treatment. Skirts were particularly short and skimpy: paired with said boots, they projected an image of loud femininity that's the complete opposite of Armanism. Yet, despite skimming it, Armani did not do vulgar: his way with things is always considered. The abundance of black-toned things down — in a good way; the flashes of Kryptonite green less so.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.