The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Having a sense of déjà vu is quite common nowadays. Ideas spread in a nanosecond and real trendsetters are a rare breed, while followers abound. Alessandro Dell'Acqua is one of those technically skilled designers who's eclectic enough to catch the winning trend and give it his own twist.
In other words, albeit not always original, he has his own unmistakable tone of voice. His winning assett is that he likes women to look and feel beautiful. After a couple of seasons of urban detours, this show saw Dell'Acqua back at celebrating full blown femininity, complete with cinched waists and demure chiffon dresses.
The Anna-Magnani in Hollywood inspiration translated into a celebration of 1940s elegance that was a bit too redolent of some enduring Prada tropes, however. Best in show, in fact, were the colorful dresses and the thick jumpers. Dell'Acqua has a unique knack with sportswear. He should explore it more: that would make him an original.
Sarah Burton saying goodbye to McQueen gives pause for reflection on the question of legacy. So does Rei Kawakubo with yet another exercise in abstraction.
After 10 years as creative director, Jonathan Anderson has defined a new attitude for the Spanish brand.
Tom Ford’s new creative director opens up to Imran Amed about his progression in the fashion industry and his first womenswear collection for the brand.
The fearlessness of Rick Owens and Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli ought to be inspirational for the fashion industry, writes Tim Blanks.