The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Colour and energy were the bywords at Iceberg, where Arthur Arbesser went gaga with pop, one of the defining traits of the house. The collection oozed enthusiasm, due in large part to the vibrant clashes of bright reds and pinks. But the Superstudio inspiration and the proliferation of stern checkerboard motifs felt rather dry. In order to progress, Arbesser, who is a good fit for Iceberg, needs to let go of his own Vienna Secession leanings or at least balance them with some warm Italian ease.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.