The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Paris is burning. The heatwave which hit the city is truly unbearable. Issey Miyake's Yusuke Takahashi would clearly not have been able to predict this when he was designing the collection, which was showed Thursday morning en plein air in the stone and steel cloister of Universitè Pierre et Marie Curie. But its title — "Through the Desert" — was truly fitting.
You get the picture: a man, befitted in the poetically abstract, past-meets-future Miyake way, ready to confront the wildest elements. The pieces were zen-simple in their purity and quite protective with their roomy, light volumes. It was all about experimenting with fabrics that although techno, reproduced the organic textures of desert landscapes.
Albeit a tad repetitive, the show was powerfully calm, reestablishing the core codes of the brand: cleverly essential design at the crossroad of East and West, putting human need at its centre. Let's call it a humanistic approach.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.