The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Bad boys. They're Haider Ackermann's default position for menswear. Aquiline assassins with an unpredictable edge. On Wednesday night, their hair was slicked into braids so sharp they looked like lethal weapons. But Ackermann insisted his bad boys are maturing, trying to stay on the straight and narrow. So he offered them a lesson, a graphic, linear collection in black and white, designed, he said, to move his wayward men "forwards and upwards." A corridor of neon tubing guided them into the light, a drumbeat, steadily increasing in tempo, provided the momentum.
Ackermann tempered his rigour with his fabrics, silk and linen, and his signature loucheness: sleeves pushed up, hems rolled, shirts knotted round waists, bare chests for days. And the footwear was ribbon-tied sandals. When his bad boys broke with the black and white, they opted for lilac and mint. They were poets at heart. Isn't that always the way with Haider's diamond dogs? Mannequins with kill appeal.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.