MILAN, Italy — Frustration can be very productive. Marco de Vincenzo based his whole new collection around this and it worked wonderfully. Recalling his childhood, in particular times when the television set broke or had no signal and he was urged to get outside into the real world, De Vincenzo explored the joys of being offline. This led naturally to the Seventies, when sociability was largely experienced outside the streets and took off from there. The conceptual detour was far and wide but enjoyable, coherent and made for an impactful collection.

Of late, De Vincenzo has found a new ease. He got rid of anything too overtly ladylike and welcomed a younger vibe whilst keeping the fabrics experimental and the shapes architectural. The glitter puffers captured the new spirit, along with the coats, flares and Antonello da Messina jumpers. What went missing was an element of surprise: the collection was trademark de Vincenzo and nothing more. Yet, this is probably the moment to insist on his signature, which is exactly what the designer did.