MILAN, Italy — In a season when everybody keeps going overtly decorative, adding embroideries, patches and more in order to get a Gucci-fied effect, Marco de Vincenzo stuck to his own psychedelic guns.
He is a decorator, too, but of a wholly different kind. His take on embellishment is the way he manipulates, prints and alters surfaces. This collection was one of his best so far: baroque, yet light. Working on a dystopian idea of ladylike, De Vincenzo delivered perfectly classic pieces, from the fur coat to the pleated skirt, that were given a cartoonish makeover. It felt fresh and naive, with a healthy dose of deranged sophistication. Should Fendi be looking for a heir to Karl Lagerfeld, De Vincenzo would be a perfect candidate. He understands playfulness and class.