default-output-block.skip-main
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Planet Plein, Again

Plein's shows have become legendary for all the wrong reasons: they are aggressive, loud and unforgivingly late. Moving the spectacle to NYC changed none of that.
Phillip Plein Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
By
  • Dan Thawley

NEW YORK, United States — Philipp Plein's Milan shows have become legendary for all the wrong reasons: they are aggressive, loud, and unforgivingly late. Moving the spectacle to NYC changed none of that, yet redirected his shallow inspiration pool towards Lady Liberty and the city that so lovingly accommodated his latest extravaganza in the hallowed halls of its Public Library.

Whilst the appearance of heavy-hitting locals like Madonna and Kylie Jenner on the front row sent jolts of excitement through the throngs of the less initiated local guests, those who’ve experienced planet Plein before were not as impressed, and the collection itself did little to quell the universal dismay of editors coming to terms with the uncanny merging of glossy, re-packaged rap culture and high fashion.

As for the clothes, one could suggest business as usual, however it seemed that the stakes were raised for Plein's first stateside affair — he heaped on the exotic skins, crystal embroideries, and vapid pageantry more than ever, in an ode to New York far removed from that orchestrated by Raf Simons at Calvin Klein earlier this week (despite the puffer jackets snatched from Raf's own line, that is). What his keen audience showed, however, is that a city like New York has room for both.

© 2022 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Fashion Week
Independent show reviews from fashion’s top critics.

Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.




view more

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The Complete Guide to Managing Markdowns
© 2023 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy and Accessibility Statement.
The Complete Guide to Managing Markdowns