The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Last season, Massimo Giorgetti's debut as the creative director of the house of Pucci left his audience a little bit puzzled. His drive to modernise the brand was clear but it didn't materialise clearly on the catwalk. Having learned from previous mistakes, this time around, Giorgetti delivered the goods. His own Pucci is fast, printed, logoed and young, pitched to satisfy the rabid appetites of millennials.
Taking inspiration from Emilio as the glamourous prince of skiing, Giorgetti revived the athletic heritage of the house, something that was lost in the hands of previous designers. The play of big and body-conscious proportions owed a debt to both the new Vuitton and the new Paco Rabanne, but it worked well, while the prints and refracted geometries felt vitalising.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.