MILAN, Italy — Psychedelic: this is how Massimo Giorgetti described this Pucci show. There were bright colors in abundance, used quite dramatically on monochromatic outfits swarming with the longest silk fringes. Visually, it was a feast just as much as it was a mess. Giorgetti keeps stubbornly searching for a contemporary key to the Pucci code.

This season the quest got him into new territory: glamour and bling, which he interpreted in spontaneous, playful ways. After all, ease is one of the Pucci codes, so in this sense Giorgetti succeeded, even though the overall feel was of something rather summery — do we really need to talk about seasons, still? What Giorgetti seems to lack, more importantly, is a wider, bigger plan for Pucci. Something embedded in the design, and the actual. So far, instead, it's been mostly a matter of styling. Emilio, after all, was a true designer.