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Sophisticated Uniformity at Jil Sander

Rodolfo Paglialunga dialed down the odd diversions of the past few seasons - militarism and fetishism - and went back to the core values of the house: luxurious simplicity and sophisticated function.
By
  • Angelo Flaccavento

MILAN, Italy — At Jil Sander, Rodolfo Paglialunga dialed down the odd diversions of the past few seasons - militarism and fetishism - and went back to the core values of the house: luxurious simplicity and sophisticated function. The collection, which greatly benefited from being concise and tightly edited, was easy, modular and soft, due to the abundance of faded and washed surfaces that gave pieces a sun-bleached allure. Sander's very own civilian take on the idea of the uniform was apparent in the long trenchcoats and functional shirt-jackets, and, overall, in the idea of a modular offering of pliable staples. The effect was, again, a tad repetitive, but the message had appeal: Paglialunga has perfected the idea of the compact, fuss-free wardrobe for self-aware men who find stressing over their look deadly boring.

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Inside the $7 Billion Dior Phenomenon