The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — If there had been a People's Choice award given at New York Fashion Week, Sander Lak would have been a clear candidate. At week's end, there were all sorts of fans testifying to the sensuosity of his clothes. It was partially achieved by something as simple as a tuck, a handful of fabric tugged into a waistband to create a little recognition of the body. "I used to do it as a teenager," said Lak. "I didn't like to hang loose."
Though it wasn’t just the tuck. There was a lot of pulling in this collection too, casual twists and drags to one side that suited the washed, satin-y fluidity of the fabrics. But what the fans ultimately endorsed was Lak’s colour palette. He showed in his studio, against walls lined with multi-coloured bolts of fabric, and when the clothes he cut from that cloth paraded down the catwalk at show’s end, they looked like a box of candies, metallic wrappers and all.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.