The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
[ MILAN, Italy — Opens in new window ]
Fausto Puglisi is fed up with the catwalk show format. So are many of us. The formula is honestly a bit tired. Instead, Puglisi collaborated with theater director Armando Punzo - director of the Teatro Stabile of the Volterra penitentiary - on an emotional experience that made the high-contrast values of the Puglisi world tangible.
The carnal grand guignol of sex and religion offered a wonderful backdrop to the designer's Dionysian take on uber-feminity. Sweat and incense made for a potent frame. But the collection was practically swallowed up by the
mise en scene
. In other words, the format is intelligent, but it needs fine-tuning. As for the clothes, it was business as usual.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.