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Top 10 Shows of the Season

BoF’s editors pick their favourite shows of the Spring/Summer 2024 season.
Prada Spring/Summer 2024.
Prada Spring/Summer 2024. (Courtesy)

BoF’s editors have followed the Spring/Summer 2024 fashion weeks from New York to London, Milan to Paris. September’s womenswear shows offered newsworthy moments (like Sabato de Sarno’s Gucci debut and Sarah Burton’s final bow at Alexander McQueen), strong statements (like Maria Grazia Chiuri’s meditation on women’s rights at Dior), and no shortage of desirable wardrobe options from Chanel to Saint Laurent to Courrèges. But a few runway moments stood out from the pack.

1. Prada

Prada Spring/Summer 2024.Opens in new window
Prada Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

Collection, soundtrack and set conspired to create an ultra-memorable show by Miuccia Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons. The outing was also an emotional moment, as the last Prada show before Fabio Zambernardi, the group’s longtime design director, exits the company. Read More: The Miuccia-ness of Prada, the Gucci-ness of Tom Ford

2. Undercover

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Undercover Spring/Summer 2024.Opens in new window
Undercover Spring/Summer 2024. (Launchmetrics.com/Spotlight)

Undercover’s glowing, terrarium-style gowns, filled with flowers and live butterflies, made for a true fashion moment. Read More: Paris Day Three: The Power of Memories at Dries Van Noten and Undercover

3. Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2023.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2023. (Maison Margiela)

John Galliano returned to the Paris ready-to-wear calendar with a theatrical, yet wearable outing. Read More: In Paris, a Season of Normality

4. Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

These languid looks from Antwerp-based Dries Van Noten lingered in our editors’ memories. Read More: Paris Day Three: The Power of Memories at Dries Van Noten and Undercover

5. Y/Project

Y/Project Spring/Summer 2024.
Y/Project Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

Glenn Marten’s favoured motifs like twisted jersey, ruched gowns and deconstructed denim were particularly striking this season. Read More: In Paris, A Season of Normality

6. JW Anderson

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JW Anderson Spring/Summer 2024.
JW Anderson Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

Sculptural, intelligent, desirable: J.W. Anderson was the highlight of London Fashion Week. Read More: In London, Plasticine and Messy Dressing

7. Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

A collage of global references, including silhouettes, materials and craft techniques, were twisted and sublimated in Mathieu Blazy’s Milan show. Read More: Milan Day Four: Thinking of a Master Plan

8. Rick Owens

Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2024.Opens in new window
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

Rick Owens’ signature brand of post-apocalyptic chic was pushed to new heights of theatricality and reinvigorated by an infusion of colour. Read More: Paris Day Four: Dressing With Abandon

9. Miu Miu

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

Campus co-eds were the theme at Miu Miu again this season, backdropped by a cheeky art installation and punctuated by novel silhouettes including pleated and ruffled jacquard gowns in white and black. Read More: Paris: The Final Day — Last Women Standing

10. Mugler

Mugler Spring/Summer 2024.
Mugler Spring/Summer 2024. (Indigital)

They may not have a big budget, but they had the biggest fans: both the kind that sent veils flying through the air and the kind whose cheers amped up the energy at the memorable show by Casey Cadwallader. Read More: In Paris, A Season of Normality

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