NEW YORK, United States — With fashion's merry-go-round spinning back to the 1990's and a pretty, athletic kind of sexiness, it was a surprise to see veteran Vera Wang's dark riposte of a collection stride out this morning across a catwalk that repeated 'READBETWEENTHELINES' in an ominous ribbon of text.

Rather than banking on the more ladylike elements of her aesthetic (she's a bridal specialist, after all) Wang repeated the stark monochromes that marked last season's sober affair and ran with a severe, deconstructed study of the 'bar' peplum jacket and the bomber.

A multitude of intricate constructions appeared with trailing crepe sleeves and ballooning shoulders, an effect mirrored in sweatshirts layered over lace shifts or trailing sheer crèpe maxi-dresses. A play of transparency and skin lent the latter a certain racy appeal, an effect sadly missing in the clumsy appliqué of giant pearls that weighed down tank dresses and sheer column skirts.