The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Maximalism and hyper-decoration are all the rage in Milan this season. Mash-up, pile-up, the weirder the better. Not for everyone though. The posse of offbeat purists is small but powerful. Damir Doma is among them. Since he decamped from Paris to Milan a little less than one year ago, Doma has found a new voice: emotional and soulful, but with a tougher, raw energy.
The collection he presented on Sunday — in a vast gallery to a ravenous soundtrack that washed over a wonderful collection of street-cast models walking over an arrangement of worn-out carpets — was one of his best. You could see his love for deconstructed tailoring merge with his quest for an androgynous, poetic kind of femininity to form a cohesive message with beautiful clothes to match. The thick jumpers layered over satin slip dresses were particularly noteworthy, and so to the voluptuous, voluminous coats. Minimalism has never been so vibrant and so warm.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.