Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Prada’s Path to Retail Performance

Luca Solca examines Prada Group CEO Andrea Guerra’s push to double retail space productivity at its flagship brand.
Prada CEO Andrea Guerra aims to double retail space productivity at the company's flagship brand.
Prada Group CEO Andrea Guerra aims to double retail space productivity at the company's flagship brand. (Getty Images)

Prada Group’s new CEO Andrea Guerra has voiced his ambition to double its flagship brand’s retail space productivity, identifying this as the most important opportunity for the company in the next few years. “From day one, I am arguing and talking about productivity,” he said. “There is a lot to be done. The ambition is to double it in three or four years… It is the biggest like-for-like opportunity we have.”

In luxury goods, improving retail space productivity — or sales per square foot across a company’s store network — is at the heart of shareholder value creation. That’s because luxury goods is a fixed cost industry, with many of those costs at the store level, in prime location rents and sales associate salaries. Better sales densities provide greater operating leverage over these fixed costs and boost profit margins, return on invested capital and, ultimately, shareholder value.

Today, Prada is materially behind bigger soft luxury competitors on retail space productivity, according to Bernstein estimates. The brand has approximately half the retail space productivity of Kering flagship Gucci and less than 25 percent the productivity of LVMH cash cow Louis Vuitton.

The author has shared a Flourish data chart.You will need to accept and consent to the use of cookies and similar technologies by our third-party partners (including: YouTube, Instagram or Twitter), in order to view embedded content in this article and others you may visit in future.

The issue is partially structural: retail space productivity is a function of the marketing dollars a brand can spend, and Prada, being significantly smaller than Gucci and Louis Vuitton, would be hard pressed to match their marketing budgets. But much of the gap stems from inefficient retail operations as well as the size of Prada stores. Prada has a high quality retail network, but its stores are often too large.

ADVERTISEMENT

Guerra has indicated that Prada will use an array of measures to increase retail space productivity — including faster and more efficient operations (to improve the replenishment of top sellers), customer service and clienteling (to increase sales per customer, favour repeat purchases and increase items per basket), and, one presumes, rightsizing stores that are too large in non-strategic locations.

Prada is coming from behind on retail space productivity compared to peers. The jury is out on how much the company will be able to achieve. But the headroom for improvement is definitely there.

Luca Solca is head of luxury goods research at Bernstein.

Further Reading

Inside Prada’s Best Year in Business

The Milanese group, which also owns Miu Miu and Church’s, leveraged a partnership between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons to generate record sales. A Thursday presentation gave investors a first peek at Prada’s future plans under new leadership.

Why Prada Is Hiring a New CEO

Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada are stepping down as the group’s co-CEOs, passing the reins to former Luxottica chief Andrea Guerra and hiring a new leader for their flagship Prada brand.

In This Article

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Luxury
How rapid change is reshaping the tradition-soaked luxury sector in Europe and beyond.

The Other Side of Hedi Slimane

The designer has always been an arch perfectionist, a quality that has been central to his success but which clashes with the demands on creative directors today, writes Imran Amed.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024