The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Paco Rabanne Creative Director Julien Dossena will launch menswear during his Spring/Summer 2020 show on Thursday, as the brand capitalises on the success of its womenswear line.
"The idea is to extend to menswear what we do in womenswear," said Paco Rabanne General Manager Bastien Daguzan. "There is a continuation in fabrics and prints. For some categories like jersey, knits, t-shirts, accessories, it was seamless."
The men's collection will be distributed exclusively by five retailers and in Paco Rabanne's own e-shop, with the line delivered to stores globally in December this year. The collection will be expanded gradually, with the brand targeting for at least 25 percent of its revenues to come from menswear within the next five years.
Paco Rabanne is part of Puig, a third-generation family-owned fashion and fragrance business. From the revival of the brand's ready-to-wear in 2011 until 2017, Paco Rabanne's perfume division was kept separate. Under the direction of Daguzan and Dossena, with the support of Puig, the brand implemented a new "One Rabanne" strategy to bring the fashion and fragrance businesses together.
The first step in that approach was the creation of the Pacollection fragrance, credited by Daguzan as the "cornerstone of our One Rabanne strategy." The launch of a menswear line is a continuation of that vision. "We will be able to create bridges with the global brand ecosystem which the perfume is a part of," said Daguzan.
There will be tie-ups between the fashion and fragrance arms to follow, and a genderless makeup line is also in the works.
Puig anticipates Paco Rabanne's fashion and fragrances sales to reach a combined total of €1 billion by 2025. While it does not publicly share a breakdown in figures, fragrances are understood to still represent the majority of the brand's business, with blockbuster scents such as One Million and Invictus leading the charge.
"The brand has always had a masculine footprint," said Daguzan, referring to the house's strong fragrances for men. “Now, thanks to the commercial success of womenswear, we are able to introduce menswear."
Under the leadership of Daguzan and Dossena, who joined the company in 2017 and 2013 respectively, Paco Rabanne SAS is growing fast. The brand is expected to triple its revenue in 2019 after doubling it in 2018. About 50 percent of sales are generated online.
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