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At Boss, Playing the Colour Card

Jason Wu drew from the much-referenced oeuvre of British painter David Hockney.
Hugo Boss Spring/Summer 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
By
  • Dan Thawley

NEW YORK, United States — Season after season, designer Jason Wu has found new ways of approaching the German austerity of Hugo Boss, an exercise that has produced consistently approachable (if not immediately desirable) clothes. Boss has a different audience to his own line, calling for a more daywear-driven approach — a twist on 9-5 suiting here, weekend getaway options there — and this show ticked those boxes via a poppy colour card drawn from the much-referenced oeuvre of British painter David Hockney.

From plissé georgette slips wrapped with bands of vermillion and blush silk, to white or cobalt short suits trussed with utility straps, Wu kept bold shades in play throughout, with sheer, cutout, or ruffle details accenting the flat fabrications. When texture came into play, primary-coloured floral appliqué felt like a jarring misstep, yet decorative paillettes sprayed across tulle t-shirts held the same earthy appeal as a pair of creased shifts dyed in neutral tones of washed nappa.

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