Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Seduction and Restraint at Hermès

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski has been struggling to nail her signature at the revered French luxury house. She may have found it.
By
  • Angelo Flaccavento

PARIS, France — There is something extremely seductive about strictness and restraint. Sensual even. The Hermès show on Saturday night was a perfect embodiment of this idea and a welcome step forward for the revered luxury house. The collection exuded an unmistakable sense of elegance and rigor, with a noir feel. It was shown in a sensational auditorium-like setting with curvaceous, translucent walls that revealed lights twinkling to the soundtrack.

Not French, not bourgeois, not cliché. Just elegance of the best kind, done with the incredible Hermès savoir faire, featuring supple leathers and superior craft. There were no blatant references to other eras or labels, no sampling or carbon copying of vintage styles. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski has been struggling to find her signature at Hermès; a way to create contemporary relevance at a house that's one of the last bastions of true luxury. Now, she may have found it.

The perfection of the cuts and the attention to detail transformed every piece into a timeless object, an impression enforced by the neutral colour palette. Such precision, however, was softened by glimpses of skin and signs of bodies moving underneath the clothes. This created a frisson that can be delicate to do right, but something that Vanhee-Cybulski should explore further. It suits her sensibility.

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Fashion Week
Independent show reviews from fashion’s top critics.

What I Learned From Fashion Month

From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The Business of Beauty Global Forum
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
The Business of Beauty Global Forum