The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — Another fashion month has drawn to a close. Here, BoF picks the top ten shows of the Autumn/Winter 2018 season.
1. Undercover — designed by Jun Takahashi, PFW
Undercover Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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The collection was an extraordinary, fetishistic fashion journey into the depths of the American teen psyche as idealised by a Japanese outsider.
2. Alexander McQueen — designed by Sarah Burton, PFW
Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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The attention to detail, breadth of vision and grasp of the mood of the moment combined to create a fashion force of nature.
3. Sacai — designed by Chitose Abe, PFW
Sacai Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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Chitose Abe elevated her mission of hybridisation to new heights, bringing a sly wit that tricked the eye with deliberate mismatches.
4. Gucci — designed by Alessandro Michele, MFW
Gucci Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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It was Alessandro Michele's most confounding excursion yet, one that made connections between the distant past, troubled present and a future in which the designer insists on optimism.
5. Calvin Klein — designed by Raf Simons, NYFW
Calvin Klein Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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Raf Simons sounded a hopeful note while once again proving his mastery of an unsettling mood of menace. The threat risk was high.
6. Versace — designed by Donatella Versace, MFW
Versace Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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Colour and drape united the disparate strands on display — tartan armies, African graphism — and suggested new paths of exploration for the house.
7. Balenciaga — designed by Demna Gvasalia, PFW
Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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Demna Gvasalia has a refreshing imperturbable point of view. If this collection is any indication, he will only find more interesting ways to exercise it.
8. Erdem — designed by Erdem Moralioglu, LFW
Erdem Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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The designer was practically guaranteed a star collection when he turned to the glamorous life of Adele Astaire for inspiration, bringing a new substance to his world.
9. Loewe — designed by Jonathan Anderson, PFW
Loewe Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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There was a harmony in the alluring, shruggy casualness of the collection — a quality that Jonathan Anderson should be able to take all the way to the bank.
10. Coach — designed by Stuart Vevers, NYFW
Coach Autumn/Winter 2018 | Source: InDigital
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If Coach has been America's house of leather for 76 years, this collection was its evolution into an American luxury brand.
Two of the most evocative shows of the season, one firmly based in reality, the other existing in a melancholy dream realm, writes Tim Blanks.
How do Maria Grazia Chiuri and Anthony Vaccarello impose their personal idiosyncrasies on two of the biggest brands in fashion?
‘I like the idea of a house linked to a form of utopia, of a shared project,’ said the designer, who will mark three years leading the space-age brand at his Paris Fashion Week show Wednesday.
Marni finally touches down in the capital of fashion after its global mini-tour, writes Tim Blanks.