The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
HERZOGENAURACH, Germany — New uses for wool in sneakers such as Adidas AG's marquee Ultra Boost helped drive prices to a record. They'll only climb further this year, according to growers in the world's biggest producer.
Increased affluence in traditional markets such as China and growing demand for natural fibres in athleisure wear has coupled with limited supply to create a “perfect storm” for wool, according to Australian Wool Innovation Ltd., which represents 24,000 growers in the country that supplies about 90 percent of the world’s apparel wool.
"It can only go up, it can't go down," AWI Chief Executive Officer Stuart McCullough said Tuesday in an interview. Prices, which jumped 30 percent last year, are on track to reach A$20 ($15.92) a kilogram after hitting a record A$18.22 on Tuesday, he said.
“China is the perfect consumer of Australian wool — they have always been good manufacturers and they also now have the affluence to start buying wool” more for their own use, he said. The nation is the biggest consumer of Australian wool and accounts for about 78 percent of exports. Italy is the second-biggest buyer.
Constrained supply and rising demand has wool in a sweet spot.
But it’s the U.S. where there is room for significant growth, according to McCullough. Per capita wool consumption in the U.S. is just 300 grams (11 ounces) a year — compared with about 1 kilogram in China, Europe and Canada, he said.
AWI is driving a campaign to boost use of the fiber in the U.S. with television ads planned for later this year. The campaign will target the so-called Gen Y, who have a greater interest in responsible sourcing and product life, and will focus on outdoor and leisurewear garments.
Lost Market
“It’s not a new market, it’s a lost market,” McCullough said. “We have to change the perception of wool in the U.S. They often think of it as itchy, scratchy — something your granny knitted you that doesn’t wash very well.”
Along with Adidas, Nike Inc. and Puma SE are using wool in sneakers and clothing as more consumers seek out natural fibres over synthetic. These brands “recognise that there is a generation coming through that wants to know where it comes from and where it is going to,” he said.
Prices will be underpinned by supply constraints with production in Australia mostly stable since around 2010. Exports are forecast to gain just 4 percent to 446,000 metric tons in 2017-18, with the value to increase 20 percent to A$4.3 billion on higher prices, according to the Australian Bureau of Agricultural and Resource Economics and Sciences.
“There is no easy way of getting substantial growth in the wool market,” McCullough said, citing infrastructure constraints for farmers. “We will see it tick along at 2 percent to 5 percent growth over the next significant period.”
By Rebecca Keenan; editors: Phoebe Sedgman and Andrew Hobbs.
From the day-of dress code to British brands hopping on board, BoF breaks down all the sartorial details of the historic day
Attendees stayed on dress code — with some over-the-top interpretations — for the annual event, which paid homage to the late designer.
Join us for our next #BoFLIVE on Thursday, February 16 at 15:00 GMT / 10:00 EST, based on our latest case Study How to Build a Profitable DTC Brand. BoF’s deputy editor Brian Baskin along with DTC correspondent Malique Morris and chief marketing officer of UK-based beauty brand Trinny London, Shira Feuer explore blueprints for growing a profitable brand.
The 10 themes in The State of Fashion 2023, the authoritative annual report from The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company, highlight how businesses can deploy realistic yet bold strategies to drive growth, even amid challenging times.