Newly appointed Helmut Lang creative director Peter Do will show his first collection for the Fast Retailing-owned label to kick off the Spring/Summer 2024 edition of New York Fashion Week on Sept. 8, according to the CFDA’s preliminary schedule. CFDA 2022 Accessories Designer of the Year recipient Raul Lopez of Luar will close the week for the second time on Sept. 13. Ralph Lauren is set to make his return to the NYFW runway for the first time since September 2019.

”New York Fashion Week is an integral part of New York City’s vibrant culture and sense of constant evolution and discovery,” said CFDA chief executive Steven Kolb. “This season’s official New York Fashion Week schedule plays to this sentiment and will once again showcase the best of American fashion, both emerging and established.”

Jonathan Cohen and Phillip Lim will also stage NYFW comebacks after a few seasons away. Other returning brands include mainstays Altuzarra, Brandon Maxwell, Gabriela Hearst, Jason Wu, Carolina Herrera, Proenza Schouler and Michael Kors. Khaite, Tibi, Cos and downtown favourites Puppets & Puppets, Eckhaus Latta, Dion Lee and Collina Strada will show as well. New additions to the schedule are Advisry, Chan Chit Lo, FFORME, Grace Ling and Sho Konishi. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion fund finalists — including Colin LoCasio, Kim Shui and Who Decides War — will host collection showcases throughout the week. Coach will show on Sept. 7, before the week’s official kick-off.

Do, who became beloved for his clean tailoring and considered designs at the helm of his namesake label, joined Helmut Lang in May. His much-anticipated debut will attempt to breathe life back into the brand, which underwent restructuring in 2018.

”I am deeply committed to preserving the legacy of Helmut Lang while also infusing it with my own perspective and creativity. We are excited to open NYFW with an energetic chapter for the House,” said Do in a statement.

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Helmut Lang Taps Peter Do as Creative Director

Do will unveil his first collection for the Fast Retailing-owned label in September. He will remain at the helm of his namesake label.