Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

The Business of Beauty Haul of Fame: A Delia’s Catalogue for Beauty?

A Gen Alpha beauty disruptor is coming.
Yawn is a line of gentle and playful colour cosmetics for Men Alpha that launched at the end of December 2023.
Yawn is a line of gentle and playful colour cosmetics for Gen Alpha that launched at the end of December 2023. (Courtesy)

Welcome back to Haul of Fame, the weekly beauty roundup of new products, new ideas and a moment of appreciation for Gen X beauty.

Included in today’s issue: Burberry, Buxom, Charlotte Tilbury, ColourPop, Dior, Dr. Bronner’s, Fenty, Holler and Glow, Marc Jacobs, Morphe, Nyx, Ouai, Tarte Cosmetics, Topicals and True Botanicals. But first…

If you’re not paying attention to Tara Tersigni, cool — that’s how she likes it.

The New Jersey native began her career as a segment producer for Snoop Dogg’s reality show, “Father Hood” in 2007, and then helped Bobbi Brown transition her beauty brand for the digital world. In 2018, she co-founded Jones Road Beauty with Brown, remaining with the line until 2021.

ADVERTISEMENT

Today, Tersigni runs a quietly thrumming VC fund, La Cosa Ventures, with active investments in Starface and Dune Suncare. But her own daughters — aged 7 and 5 — are the ones propelling her latest venture. It’s called Yawn, a line of gentle and playful colour cosmetics for Gen Alpha that soft-launched at the end of December.

“If my daughters could wear red lipstick like Taylor Swift, permanently, that’s what they would do,” said Tersigni. “They live and breathe her makeup and skincare routine — it actually shocks me. They ask for Drunk Elephant. They ask for Laneige lip masks and Bubble skincare. I don’t want to demonise beauty products — they’re not drugs, but some ingredients aren’t necessary or healthy.”

On a trip to Target, Tersigni’s daughters saw a makeup line inspired by a popular cartoon. “I looked at the ingredients and I was floored,” she said, noting unregulated talc and petroleum.

Yawn is made in the US and features a pink lip balm, a red blush stick and a chubby blue body stick, all made with a coconut oil base. The products are adorable, and the moms I’ve surveyed would all let their kids play with them. “I’d honestly be relieved,” said my friend Jen, whose 6-year-old daughter Emma recently smeared her Dior Lip Glow onto a Barbie. Oops.

But what’s really interesting to me is the way Tersigni wants to brand her stuff, which is currently sold as a DTC set for $29.

Even now that the holidays are over, Tersigni reports the Amazon holiday catalogue remains a favourite thing for her kids. “It was thoughtfully done and gorgeous. There are games inside. There are illustrations. My kids go through it for hours. They cut things out. They colour inside it. They treat it the way we used to treat magazines.”

“I don’t want to show Yawn to kids on screens,” Tersigni said, referencing recent beauty games on Roblox that may or may not be capturing Gen Alpha’s future dollars.”

“I feel like we haven’t seen things like this since the Delia’s catalogue,” she said, evoking the Millennial bible of rainbow track pants and fuzzy cardigans and the colour of Fun Dip flavours. “It’s coming back now.”

ADVERTISEMENT

What Else Is New…

SKINCARE

Jessica Chastain is the new face of True Botanicals, a welcome change from the 20-something models often used to promote anti-wrinkle products. (Or in this case, the line’s new Phyto-Retinol Sleep Serum, which launched Jan. 3.) Chastain is both fresh-faced and 46, and though she likely has Hollywood’s best dermatologists on call — along with real glow boosters like health insurance, clean water, secure housing and nutritious food — it’s still great to see a brand pick a Gen X woman to talk about the realities of experienced skin.

Speaking of skincare for adulting, Dior Beauty has unveiled Capture Totale Hyalushot, a “wrinkle corrector” that claims to reduce the look of lines by 45 percent in just four hours and extend the life of fillers. Peter Thomas Roth’s new Peptide Skinjection range — a moisturiser and a serum — also says it reduces lines and extends fillers. (I suspect messaging that acknowledges, and even benefits, injectables will be a big one for topicals this year.)

Holler and Glow had the wacko idea to take hyaluronic acid — you know, the much-hyped hydration molecule in every “plumping” serum — and put it in a rainbow foot mask. It dropped Dec. 26 at Target for $3.99. Brace yourself for the “signs of ageing start with your feet” campaign that’s inevitably coming. (Note to marketers: Please don’t actually do this? Our feet are fine.)

Laneige lip masks may be a hit with Gen Alpha, but their new Water Bank moisturiser debuted on Dec. 29 with soothing blue packaging that seems coded for Millennials. Clean & Clear released a reformulation of their famous Morning Burst Facial Cleanser on Jan. 3 with non-plastic beads and a 50 percent recycled plastic bottle. That’s great, but as Dr. Bronner’s has proven with their non-plastic soap cartons, we can go further. Our oceans (and lives) depend on it.

On Jan. 1, Bobbi Brown released a Vitamin Enriched Smoothing Serum to “smooth, brighten and even skin in just 4 weeks.” It’s meant to be worn as a complexion booster, but also a primer for makeup to go on more evenly.

Violets Are Blue dropped their new Enzyme Jelly Hydra Mask on Jan. 3 at Credo Beauty, made with water from an Icelandic glacier. Elsewhere in water-worshipping ingredients, Osea launched a Collagen Dream Night Cream on Jan. 4 using retinol derived from blue-green microalgae. Yes, this stuff is sometimes literally called pond scum but is also crazy loaded with nutrients.

Ouai is being coy about their new St. Barts Body Cleanser launch on social media, but as of Jan. 2, it’s already available on Ulta Beauty. Enjoy!

ADVERTISEMENT

Kiki World asked shoppers to vote on their new zit sticker designs, a holographic smiley face and lightning bolt won. They launched Jan. 1 for $12.99 per sheet.

On Dec. 26, Topicals released Slick Salve Mint Lip Balm. I haven’t tried it yet, but the before-and-after photos on their site look perfectly glossy.

COSMETICS

Speaking of glossy, something is up in the glitter-and-glimmer space, because five major beauty brands debuted new glow boosters on Dec. 27. Morphe manifested an Aurascape range with a mega-palette, brush set and lip gloss. Charlotte Tilbury released another radiant palette as part of her best selling Glowgasm line. ColourPop dropped a Golden Hour palette with the same vibes and Buxom’s shimmer-infused Plump Shot Lip Serums are trending at Ulta. Jan. 3 also saw a new flavour of Fenty’s lip oil in Kalahari Melon, a juicy orange tint. Obviously “shimmer for winter” is the beauty version of “florals for spring” — a yawn at best; a punchline at worst. But I wonder if all these sun goddess vibes are connected, at least a little bit, to “Percy Jackson” trending everywhere. Related: Fully wearing this to Fashion Week under an #OldCeline blazer; not sorry.

Is Tom Ford without Mr. Ford getting sentimental? On Jan. 2 this adorable heart palette hit Sephora. But you can still feel jaded about the price: $95.

Another matte makeup spray is born! Nyx Cosmetics has debuted Marshmallow Setting Spray, which claims a 16-hour hold.

Surprise! On Jan. 1, Gucci’s super-secret new Gloss á Lévres Hydrating Plumping Lip Gloss appeared in my Sephora App. These tubes are super pretty, and now I must know who the “Bertha” of Bertha Pink is. (The Grateful Dead song, maybe?)

FRAGRANCE

I’m very into Jo Malone’s new rebellious rose perfume graphics, which landed in the US on Dec. 27. They look like a cross between Stephen Sprouse’s Louis Vuitton scrawls and Betsey Johnson’s late-’90s store art.

Burberry’s Her Eau de Parfum Petals debuted on Jan. 1. The bottle is truly gorgeous, but I find it wild that Burberry’s floral clothing and their floral fragrances live in completely different aesthetic worlds, but this is a bigger convo about brand control versus designer vision. Maybe we can get into it on Feb. 2, when Marc Jacobs has his next runway show — exactly one month after Marc Jacobs Daisy Pop Eau de Toilette hit shelves. But unlike Burberry’s fragrance, you can absolutely see the connection between Jacobs’ scent and his clothes. On Sephora’s website, there’s even a graphic of the perfume bottle peeking out of a signature handbag. In terms of the actual scent, Daisy Pop claims top notes of kumquat, which means I have absolutely no idea what it smells like. You?

HAIR + BROWS

On January 1, Grande Cosmetics, which is not R.E.M. Beauty by Ariana Grande, launched haircare, including a shampoo, conditioner and volumizing foam.

Urban Decay dropped Big Bush, a volumising tinted brow gel, on Jan. 3. It comes in nine shades — ten if you count their new clear Slick Day brow gel, which debuted on the same day. Anastasia Beverly Hills also dropped a Brow Freeze Gel on Jan. 4.

The Body Shop, home of my beloved Shea Intense Repair Conditioner, has just secured a 100 percent vegan certificate from The Vegan Society for all of their products.

And if you really do want Delia*s catalog aesthetics IRL, Target dropped these tiny rhinestone hair clips on Jan. 3 and they are screaming Topanga from “Boy Meets World.”

AND FINALLY…

Tarte is hiring a social media director, so if you’re “a force of nature who thrives in a fast-paced environment” — and you want to ensure their annual influencer trip remains the 20-something equivalent of RushTok for millions of judgey voyeurs — get your resume ready.

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Beauty
Analysis and advice on the fast-evolving beauty business.

How Should We Feel About Tweens at Sephora?

There’s something both innocent and concerning about 13-year-olds’ obsession with skincare. Kids will always want to find new ways to express themselves, but the beauty industry has a responsibility to protect its youngest customers.


Why Puig’s IPO Timing Couldn’t Be Better

The family-owned Spanish conglomerate has confirmed it will pursue a public offering in the coming months. After a fairly fast transformation, the company now has a bold diversification strategy and a strong mix of brands in place, making it more ready than it has ever been for the European markets.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024